Cat care includes ensuring that your pet has food and water readily available. Cats typically get their own exercise as they play and prowl around the house, thus alleviating the need to take them on walks. It doesn't take a lot to keep a cat happy which is another reason that they are such popular pets.
Cat care includes providing your pet with a box or a cushion to sleep. This is an area in which they will feel comfortable and safe, and they will often choose their own spot to make their home.
Providing them with a litter box is essential, and cats are typically easily trained to use the box in accordance with their habits of cleanliness. Litter needs to be changed on a regular basis, as cats will often not go to the toilet in an unclean environment.
An easy cat training tip is to work with your cat over a few weeks and figure out which kind of litter they like best. There are a great variety of different litters and you may find that one works better than another.
Cats will keep their claws immaculate, and will often sharpen them as needed on tree trunks and the like. If yours is solely an indoor cat, you may find that your cat will use furniture to sharpen its claws which can result in gouges or scratch marks. A cat training tip to avoid this problem is to provide your pet with an alternative option such as a scratching post. Rewarding your cat for using the scratching post can be done in the form of little treats, and they will soon learn to use the post instead of the furniture.
Cats will spend hours grooming themselves, often swallowing hair in the process. Cat care also includes brushing your cat on a regular basis to minimise the occurrence of large hair balls being swallowed.
Part of cat care includes monitoring the health of your pet. Please remember that your cat should have vaccinations at an early age and often these are legally required. Monitoring your cat for changes in behaviour is also important, and if any significant changes are noticed, it is always a good idea to consult a veterinarian. Taking care of your cat will ensure a long and lasting relationship. By Robert Grever
Do not overstock
The first basic rule to healthy fish is NOT to overstock. Use at least 10 gallons of water per goldfish, more for commons and comets.
Plan for the Future
He may look like a tiny thing but goldfish live long lives and grow continuously. You need to cover the tank as goldfish may jump.
If you take care of the water, the water will take care of the fish
- Treat your tap water with a high quality tap water conditioner that will neutralize chlorine/chloramines and detoxify heavy metals from your tap water.
- Measure it for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH to make sure the water is stable and non toxic.
- Filter it. The filter on your goldie tank should pass the tank’s entire water volume through the filter at least ten times per hour. Your filter traps trap debris and particles in your tank and also serves as a home for the bacteria that keep the water happy by converting ammonia (toxic) into nitrIte (still toxic) into nitrAte (less toxic). It will take several weeks to establish your biological filter (the good guy bacteria). Read about this process called cycling here.
- Perform partial water changes weekly or biweekly (20-40%) to take care of the waste not dealt with in the biological cycle and to replenish the minerals and other good stuff the goldfish have used up.
- Clean the filter by rinsing filter media (the fuzzy stuff) in some tank water twice a month.
- Clean the gravel. Vacuum parts (but not all of it) every time you do a partial water change. "Nasties" may hide there that will pollute your water. Debris (fish poop, uneaten food, etc) build up and the bacteria that consume debris produce ammonia. If areas build up that don't get good water circulation, it can produce toxic gasses.
Goldfish are living beings and need oxygen
- Provide large surface area. Goldfish fare better in tanks that are long, rather than tall. Longer tanks provide a larger surface area for optimal gas exchange.
- Make sure there is surface movement. If the filter does not provide movement add some airstones.
- Do not overstock. More fish means less oxygen per fish.
- Perform partial water changes and tank cleaning weekly. Your tank maintenance assist oxygen production because as you remove dying plant, debris and uneaten food you reduce the number of oxygen consuming bacteria.
- Watch for gasping. If fish gasp you may have a problem related to oxygen.
Goldfish have preferences
- Keep a stable temperature around 76F
- pH should be over 7 (preferably over 7.4). However if your KH (which measures your alkalinity) is low (under 80 PPM) you may see pH swings and if you experience pH drops between waterchanges you should look into increasing your alkalinity (KH) so your pH stays stable. Crushed coral or crushed oystershell added to a high flow area can also be used to increase KH and keep pH stable.
- Some hardness (GH) makes for happier fish
- Lights. Goldfish need to see to find food and have fun. Unless your room is bright add artificial fluorescent light. But remember that goldfish do like dark periods as well.
Goldfish are creatures of habit. Keep things stable
- Don't tinker too much. Goldfish adapt to a wide range of pH and hardness. What they really need is for you to keep it stable so they do not have to adjust too often.
- Use a heater to keep the temperature stable. Goldfish can adjust to a wide range. But around 76 Fahrenheit is a good temp for most fancy varieties.
- Use a thermometer to measure temperature. And make sure the temperature of the change water is the same as the temperature of the tank water.
- Test your pH every week and check the pH of your tapwater often.
Goldfish tanks should be about goldfish
- Decorations. Keep them to a minimum. Goldfish need room to swim. They can get stuck between or under decorations. Avoid sharp decorations that they could get hurt on.
- Substrate. Gravel can provide a home for the bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrAte, however it also provides a breeding ground for bacteria that eat debris and can cause disease. Gravel can also be a hazard if goldfish swallow it or get it stuck in their throats. Either use a shallow layer of gravel small enough to pass through a goldfish, or use a single layer of larger rocks too large to fit in their mouths. You can also have a bare-bottomed tank.
- Tankmates. It is easier to succeed with a goldfish only tank. Tropicals have different requirements and are often sensitive to goldfish medications (like salt). Common Plecos and apple snails do not make good mates as they may suck on goldfish slimecoat and harm or injure them. Smaller hardy snails like trapdoors or small ramshorns would work fine though.
- Plants. Plants can be used with goldfish but not always with success. Goldfish like to think of plants as their own salad bar and you may have to try a few before having success. Good ones to start with are java fern, anacharis, java moss, sword plants, dwarf anubias and Crypts. For more information, see our article on Goldfish and Plants.
Goldfish are omnivours and need good varied food to be healthy and happy
- Feed goldfish once or twice a day (more often if they are babies and juveniles)
- Feed a varied diet
- Do not overfeed.
- If you feed dry food (pellets or flakes) make sure they are good quality ones and not too old
- Feed a varied diet of shrimp; krill and some live foods such as daphnia and worms. See our Goldfish Diner for more ideas for healthy goldfish foods.
- Omnivours like their vegetables. Feed washed greens, spirula, peas, oranges and more.
- Some goldfish are sensitive to dry food - particularly dry flakes. You may have to presoak your dry food or if see problems (like flipover) eliminate it from the diet
- You can find more information in our goldfish nutrition articles.
Plan for the unexpected
- Goldfish can get sick so keep your medicine cabinet stocked
- Quarantine new fish (three to four weeks) to prevent illness spreading
- Have a Hospital Tank ready (or something that will work as a make-up tank) just in case.
Be the best veterinarian you can
- If fish get sick or out of sort try make a specific diagnosis rather than poison fish with too many medicines.
- Always check your water first
- Isolate sick specimens
- Come describe what's happening in our Sick Fish Forum and we will try and help.
Thus plenty of water, generous space, regular water maintenance and good healthy food and your goldie should enjoy a long happy life with you
Posted by
Pets Care
Jan 9, 2010
4:58 PM
The anal sacs (also known as anal glands) are two small sacs located on either side of the anus at the five and seven o'clock position. Their role is similar to scent glands and they secrete a oily, foul smelling substance which helps other cats to identify the individual. When a cat defecates, the sphincter muscle contracts & squeezes the anal glands, emptying them. They are also emptied by forceful contractions of the anal sphincter which happens when a cat is scared or upset.
Anal sac disease begins when the anal glands secretions become thickened & impacted. This causes inflammation. If the anal sacs are not treated at this point, infection may occur which could lead to abscess. This in turn could eventually rupture through the adjacent skin.
Obese cats are more likely to develop anal sac disease.
What are the signs of impacted anal glands in cats?
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Scooting it's bottom along the floor.
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Biting & or licking around the anal region.
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Straining while defecating.
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Pain while defecating.
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Obvious pain in the anal area.
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Swelling in the anal area.
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Rupture around the anal region.
How is anal gland disease in cats treated?
If the anal glands are simply impacted & haven't progressed to infection & or abscess then manually expressing the secretions may be all that is required. Your veterinarian will need to do this & it involves inserting a finger into the anus & gently applying pressure.
If the anal sacs have become infected or abscessed, lancing & extraction of the infected material will be necessary. This is followed by flushing & antibiotics are instilled into the sacs to treat infection.
If your cat has repeated problems with their anal glands, surgical removal may be necessary.
Preventing anal sac disease in cats:
The anal sacs should be regularly checked for signs of impactation, infection or abscess.
Posted by
Pets Care
Jan 7, 2010
11:11 AM
RINGWORM (DERMATOPHYTOSIS), A FUNGAL INFECTION, IS THE MOST COMMON CONTAGIOUS SKIN INFECTION IN CATS. It can also affect the nails. Ringworm can be transmitted from cats to other animals and to people.
NOT A WORM, A FUNGUS
Several different fungi can cause ringworm. Feline cases are usually caused by Microsporum canis, Microsporum gypseum, or Trichophyton species. The fungus is most commonly found on an infected animal or in the infected animal’s living quarters. Spores shed into the environment can live for up to 24 months. Spores can live on brushes, bedding, furniture – anything the infected animal has touched.
RISK FACTORS
Most healthy adult cats are naturally resistant to ringworm. Kittens under a year old are most often infected. Sick cats, senior cats, and free-roaming cats seem to be at increased risk. Genetics may also play a role, as Persians appear to be more susceptible to ringworm.
RINGWORM SYMPTOMS
Ringworm usually appears as small round, scaly, hairless lesions on the head, ears, or tail. The lesions may itch, grow, and develop pustules. Occasionally, the infection will affect the entire body. Excessive shedding and hairballs may also occur. Ringworm can also cause nails to grow malformed.
RINGWORM PREVENTION
If you have cats in your home, be careful about bringing a new kitten into the mix. Also, exercise caution when visiting cat shows, kennels, and groomers. If you see any sign of ringworm, isolate the cat and seek prompt veterinary attention. Also, wear gloves when handling affected animals and wash hands well afterwards.
DIAGNOSIS AND TREATMENT
Ringworm is most reliably diagnosed with a routine fungal culture of the skin and coat. Your veterinarian will also look for underlying disease(s) that may increase ringworm risk.
An antifungal cream with miconazole or thiabendazole is typically the first line of defense against a single lesion of ringworm. More severe cases typically also require a combination of oral treatment with an antifungal drug plus lime sulfur dips. Treatment generally continues until two weekly fungal cultures return negative results.
